“Most boats are staying in harbour today, just as we are.” … “Blowing hard, with rain. We are sitting this one out.” That is the general theme running through the blog posts of friends who are cruising the area at the same time. So what do we do? We put our heads down and sail 51.65 nautical miles through the water – hard on the wind. The rhumb-line distance is only 38 nautical miles, but getting there means a long day of tacking. Meanwhile, the most important member of the crew continues to perfect her uniquely neutral-yet-slightly-accusatory way of reading out the numbers from the wind display: “Twenty knots… twenty-five.” As though the skipper were personally responsible for every extra knot of wind and every wave that Neptune chooses to throw at us.

After a long day under sail, we finally make fast in Kiel-Laboe, still with a stiff crosswind blowing across the harbour entrance. As we come alongside, another yacht is being towed in by the lifeboat crew—a timely reminder that there is no shame in treating the sea with respect. Now it is back to work for a few days. Next Sunday, the real cruise begins—and, with a fair wind and a little luck, the more enjoyable part of the voyage as well.