From Øer we shape a northerly course through the Kattegat, passing along the eastern coast of Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. The wind remains fickle, keeping us busy trimming sheets and adjusting the traveller—after all, it’s called “sailing” – not floating – for a reason. Later it briefly backs into the north before veering south again, giving us the perfect opportunity to set the gennaker for the first time on this voyage (see above). After a stopover in Grenaa (see below), we arrive at the historic Viking town of Sæby—literally “Sea Town”—which the locals jokingly refer to as “Soap Town” (“sæbe“ = “soap”).

Grenaa.

Above: Fornæs Lighthouse (32 m), marking the easternmost point of Jutland.

Sæby.

Henrik Ibsen spent the summer of 1887 in Sæby where he conceived the idea for his play “The Lady from the Sea”. A striking sculpture, almost seven metres tall, stands beside the harbour in tribute both to the playwright and to the town’s medieval Abbey of St Mary. Its surface is adorned with small guardian-angel reliefs, crafted by local children.