We are in Sweden. More precisely, we are in Fjällbacka, a dream of a place and, quite rightly, a famous one. Today, there was a brief weather window that seemed to make the longer passage across the open Skagerrak to Sweden possible. So we set off early in the morning, making our way through the narrow natural “harbour entrance” at Verdens Ende (see photograph; there is even a submerged rock lurking roughly in the middle-right — it really is [!] tight). The strong winds of the past few days had left us with a generous residual swell, so the passage was not exactly a pleasure cruise (video). It is fantastic that the autopilot remains so stoically at work — and that we are genuinely not prone to seasickness, such a blessing. Gusts of up to 22 knots propelled SY Blue Layla briskly across the North Sea, but by the time we could finally make our way into the shelter of the skerries and their intricate waterways, we were more than ready for it.

Above: On the way to Fjällbacka, we pass Dannholmen, the island where Ingrid Bergman (1915–1982) spent her summers — one of the reasons for the village’s international fame.

After crossing the Skagerrak, we quickly climb the 76-metre ascent on foot through the famous Kungsklyfta to Vetteberget, to enjoy the view across the skerries and the fairway through which we have just sailed. At the end of the day, there are fresh prawns from the fisherman, and then it is quickly off to our bunk.