Nevlunghavn seems too small for us to stay overnight, especially as the wind is continuing to freshen. A genuine gale of Force 7 is forecast for tomorrow and the following day (it will eventually peak at Bft. 8), so we have to consider where we can sit it out along this rugged coast. One of the destinations we had set our sights on before setting out is the much-acclaimed “Verdens Ende” (“End of the World”), a natural harbour that promises reasonably good shelter from strong winds. After our extravagant fish dinner in Nevlunghavn, however, we will not make it there today, so we head instead for the relatively large harbour of Stavern, where we spend the night.

As we approach the entrance to Stavern harbour, we are greeted by remnants of the harbour’s military past. From 1677 to 2002, it was one of the most important naval bases on this coast. Today, it is the largest marina in the area and a base for the Norwegian maritime search and rescue service (see below). Just before the harbour entrance, the Stavern “Minnehallen” (“Memorial Hall”) comes into view – a pyramid-shaped, walk-in monument commemorating the Norwegian seafarers who lost their lives in the two World Wars (see above).