“Tag ner seglen” (“Lower the sails!”) is the command displayed at the entrance to the Soten Canal. With a southerly wind and a southerly course ahead of us, we opt for the sheltered route through the canal and the skerries of Sotenäs, in central Bohuslän. And dutifully fire up the Yanmar. The bridge over the canal begins to open as soon as we come into view. Later, the reason for the sign becomes apparent: the traffic in the opposite direction increases, and the only sailing yacht attempting to tack its way through this narrow slalom of navigation buoys (German flag, Swiss sail number) attracts a fair number of disapproving looks. Before setting off, however, we also make use of the electric pump-out facility for our holding tank in Hunnebostrand (see below); that, too, has to be done today.

Smögen/Kungshamn: Here we pass beneath Smögenbron and cruise past the fish-processing plant that produces our favourite mustard herring back home in Germany. Fresh from the fisherman, however, is better still.

Above: Just before Käringön, we are overtaken by a smart Dutch Hallberg-Rassy 57 drawing 2.40 metres. The charted depth at the harbour entrance: 2.40 metres. We witness the subsequent operation to tow her free. Below: Until now, we have only known Käringön in rainy weather; today, the little island presents a considerably more alluring aspect. In the early evening, a breathtakingly beautiful “Tolva” (a classic 12mR-racing yacht) from Norway squeezes into the already overcrowded harbour. We witness the preparatory telephone call with the harbourmaster – naturally, there is always room for a beauty such as this.