We leave the island of Anholt after an all-too-brief stay, but we should like to have crossed the Kattegat before the forecast strong winds set in. In fact, the Kattegat is not showing the teeth that we have already felt to our discomfort on previous occasions. The wind and waves are gentler still than forecast, allowing us to cover the approximately sixty nautical miles to Helsingør in comfort. At midday, we even light the cooker and prepare a delicious soup—something we have so far rarely been able to do out in the open sea.

We finally experience Helsingør, dominated by its famous castle, on a Friday evening: in the fine late-summer weather, the bars and restaurants are every bit as packed as the harbour, which is frequented by numerous weekend yachts and motorboats from Copenhagen and Malmö. It is fortunate that SY Blue Layla is so small, for we are still able to squeeze into one remaining gap. First thing tomorrow morning, we shall then pass through the narrow, tide-swept entrance to the Øresund, sailing past Hamlet’s castle.

The following morning, one would certainly rather be in the Øresund than the Kattegat: the sky is grey, the wind is freshening, but the sheltered waters of the Sound make for a calm passage southwards.

Above: We are overtaken by the cruise ships hurrying towards Copenhagen for the changeover of passengers. Below: A tug convoy carrying massive granite boulders hails us by radio, and we agree on a safe way for us to pass one another. Further below: The island of Ven in the middle of the Sound.

Malmö. We have arrived in the big city.