Ever since we read Carsten Jensen’s novel Vi, de druknede (We, the Drowned), set in Marstal, we had wanted to visit this remarkable place. From Warnemünde, however, Marstal is hardly on the way at all—particularly if you plan to head north through the Great Belt. From Kiel, the picture looks quite different, as the impressive fleet of German charter yachts in the harbour readily demonstrates. The passage to Ærø provides us with a generous supply of water from above, but thanks to our early start, the wind gives us enough of a push to get us there.

With strong winds forecast for the following day, we decide to spend some time ashore and explore the town. We visit the church (above/below), where the confirmations described in Jensen’s novel took place. For the young people of Marstal, these ceremonies marked the end of their school years and the beginning of their lives at sea. Afterwards, we head to the museum, where countless exhibits tell the story of Marstal’s great seafaring era: the worldwide voyages, the many tons of exotic goods and souvenirs brought home from distant shores, and the deep faith of sailors who spent their lives exposed to the forces of nature (below).